It seems strange that a city like Paris where absolutely everybody runs could ever be seen as “inhospitable to joggers“. True, there are certain risks that are particular to the streets of Paris – but really, this is simply a malentendu! Au contraire, running through Paris is the greatest way to explore areas of the city you might not normally get to visit. This blog post will prepare you to get round any particularly Parisian dangers – sans dommage.
1. Warm up in the park.
First things first. If you’ve ever felt a little uneasy with the idea of stretching in public, fear not – Paris may be the place for you. In Parisian parks, you will not only see people limbering up by strutting their stuff up and down the sandy allées, but don’t be surprised if you also see occasional solo martial artist, kick boxer, gathering of t’ai chi practitioners, or even the odd person practicing their dance or ballet moves – whatever the weather.
2. Wear anything. No really, anything!
When it comes to experimenting with fashion, Paris is not normally the place to take risks. But what goes for the catwalk does not apply to the run-way! Terrible puns aside, by day, Parisians put a lot of effort into looking achingly cool at all times. When it comes to exercise, the impulse to dress to impress gives way to the repressed urge to dress comfortably. You name it, you’ll see it worn by a jogger in the Luxembourg Gardens. I’ve seen more than one lady (of a certain age) barely jogging around Parc Monceau in chinos, a pink cashmere twinset, pearl necklace and a silk scarf wrapped round her head – it took me a while to realise that women in Paris run so slowly, and perfectly coiffed, so as to avoid sweating. When the weather is warmer, feel free to bare all: you won’t be the first person to be seen running in 40 degree heat in just underwear, I promise! For the gentlemen, I have to say, the rule of thumb seems to be the shorter and the tighter, the better. If you’ve ever been unsure about strutting your stuff in a corsaire, try it in Paris – you’ll fit right in, trust me. Not feeling so brave? Don’t worry, you’re unlikely to be the only one trotting along the banks of the Seine in jeans and converse trainers.
3. Make it scenic.
You can cram a lot of sight-seeing into a 30 minute, or 5k jog, in Paris. Get the metro to the Gare de Lyon, and simply run back along the river bank. You’ll pass the Jardin des Plantes, Notre Dame, the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, countless book stalls, and finish at the Invalides, the Eiffel Tower in sight. Criss-cross the river over as many bridges as take your fancy to add the Hôtel de Ville, Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, and Champs Elysées into the mix for a slightly longer run.
4. Be prepared for all kinds of traffic.
As a rule, boulevards are wide, rues are narrow; both have their risks. On a minor road, you need to have your wits about you: pavements are often only wide enough for one pedestrian – or runner – at a time, and if you’re not careful, you’ll end up with an RSI from preemptively looking over your shoulder before hopping into the road to get round a slow-walking concierge, or a nanny pushing a cohort of kids down the street to the park. It’s not just pedestrians you need to look out for: commuters on mopeds frequently come down pavements to avoid congestion, as do cyclists, scooters or roller bladers. There are also dogs without leads, small unwitting children, countless bollards, and the odd garçon armed with a tray of apéritifs to look out for. Along with all the above, tourists are a bigger risk on broader streets, as are cars which will creep up behind you, come out of buildings or out of the ground around you, and pull onto the pavement right next to you. Tip: early shop closing hours mean that Sunday afternoons are heavenly for running down streets where crowds are normally preventative.
5. Mind that child!
Here’s the thing: very few Parisian families are lucky enough to have a garden of their own, and indeed one might ask why anyone would bother with the hassle of maintaining their own garden, when there are so many parks in Paris that are accessible (unless it’s snowed) for free (as long as you don’t have a dog, or want to sit on the grass)? Parisian parks are an absolute haven for children – nearly all have a separate kids’ playing area, and these can include anything from simple sand pits and basic climbing frames, to candy stores, merry-go-rounds and go-kart hire, all the way to the full-scale skate park, climbing wall, and athletics track at the Parc Clichy-Batignolles. Even schools take their students to the parks for goûter. Unfortunately, all of this makes the kids rather excitable, and they don’t tend to stay in their designated play areas. If you’re doing laps in Parc Monceau, keep your wits about you, or you may find yourself hurdling over the wee ones under the disapproving eye of Madame.
6. The only way is up – and up.
Don’t ever be fooled into thinking that because it’s a city, Paris is flat. You can get away with running on even ground by following the Seine to an extent, but even then there will be sections where you will have to climb up a few stairs. In fact, the most interesting places to explore are often the ones that involve a climb. A favourite hill training/torture-run route of mine is to run across the river from the Eiffel Tower to the Trocadero Gardens, leap over the hoards of Eiffel Tower figuring pedlars, and climb up the stairs to the Palais de Chaillot. Set the Rocky theme – “Gonna fly now” – as the power song on your iPod, and do a little victory dance for the amusement of the bemused tourists as you reach the balcony at the end of your climb. Then, jog down Avenue George Wilson and do it all again.
7. Go green!
All my advice about running on the streets of Paris is well and good, but let me be clear: the only reason you should be running on the streets is to get to the parks. They are wonderful. Not only are they simply stunning, and extremely runner friendly (traffic free, abundant in water fountains, no need to worry about being chased by dogs or stepping in merde…), but each one has its own individual character. For charm, quietude and a step back into Belle Epoque Paris, head to Parc Monceau. Marcel Proust used to walk here in-between bouts of depression and bites of madeleines, and it’s former President Nicholas Sarkozy’s running spot of choice. If this isn’t your thing, Paris has recently begun to redevelop some of its former industrial sites into modernist green spaces with a completely different feel: the Parc Clichy-Batignolles is built on the tracks of the former Gare des Marchandises, where tonnes of food used to be delivered into the city on a daily basis, and the Parc André Citroën is built on the site of the old Citroën factory. Both still display features of their past lives – the footpaths of Clichy-Batignolles are built over the railways, and the suspended walkways in André Citroën once formed part of the factory. Dismantled railways have also been redeveloped, and the Promenade Plantée – or Coulée Verte – taking you from the edge of the Bois de Vincennes all the way back to the Bastille is a favourite with runners.
8. Remember the Teddy Bears’ Picnic
If you go down to the woods today, you’re sure of a big surprise. The Bois de Boulogne are famous for a number of things – not just delightful botanical and landscape gardens, but also its zoo, several lakes, cascade, wonderful restaurant, amusement park, horse racing tracks, two hippodromes, its tennis stadium, and prostitution. Take my advice, do not enter via the Neuilly Porte-Maillot entrance on the North side of the park – of you may find yourself confronted by several very pushy, somewhat terrifying, dishevelled and dolled up old cocottes. Any of the other entrances are free of filles de joie. In sum, by all means, go down to the woods – but choose your point of entry carefully.
9. Merde alors!
C’est un cliché, mais pourtant… Mind the merde. Unless you’re running in a public park where dogs are usually forbidden, it is vital that you keep your eyes on the pavé, and watch out at every step. Despite hefty penalties, in Paris, where most streets are spray cleaned on a daily basis, picking up after your chien is still seen as a discretionary service one may perform for the community, not a requirement.
10. Take a couple of euro with you.
I think I can sum up the Paris love-affair with running in one word: pâtisseries. Even on days where running is the last thing I want to do, popping a few euro in the zipper pocket of my lycra capris, and the prospect of a tasty pain au chocolat, éclair or my favourite – a pépito – is usually enough to get me out of the door before you can say avec ceçi? Prefer to take your rewards in liquid form? Then take enough for a cold beer instead. You might raise a few sourcils, but who cares – you’ve earned it.
Mini Adventures on Foot 
Parc Monceau was my favorite running and sunning spot when I was in Paris. But things must have changed from when I ran there 8 years ago, when as a girl running while wearing shorts, I was stared at, pointed at, cat called, and otherwise treated like an affront to civilized society!
I feel your pain – I could write a whole post on unsolicited comments made by French gentlemen and their inappropriate come-ons! Oddly though, I get more comments when running in the UK than in Paris… In any case, headphones are my best defence!